Journal

Sustainability

GOTS, OEKO-TEX and BCI, explained plainly

Three certifications get quoted constantly in sourcing conversations. They measure completely different things.

9 June 2026 · 5 min read

GOTS, OEKO-TEX and BCI, explained plainly

GOTS certifies the whole chain

Global Organic Textile Standard covers fibre origin plus every processing step — spinning, dyeing, sewing — and includes social criteria. A GOTS claim on a finished garment requires every facility in the chain to hold scope certificates, and a transaction certificate for the specific order.

OEKO-TEX certifies the product

Standard 100 tests finished fabric and trims for harmful substances. It says nothing about how the cotton was grown or the conditions in the factory — it confirms what is present in the material a customer touches.

BCI certifies farming practice

Better Cotton works at farm level on water, pesticide and labour practices, operating on a mass-balance model. Cotton is not physically traced to your garment; you buy credits against volume sourced.

Choosing what to claim

Claim what you can evidence. GOTS if you want fibre-to-garment traceability and are prepared for the cost and paperwork; OEKO-TEX if the concern is chemical safety; BCI as a programme-level commitment rather than a product label.

How a collection is made

Four stages, one accountable supply chain.

Every Indies programme follows the same route from first brief to loaded container — managed by a UK account team and produced on Indies-owned floors in India.

Brief & Costing
01

Brief & Costing

Tech packs, sketches or reference garments are costed by our London merchandising desk, typically within three business days.

Sampling
02

Sampling

Proto, fit and pre-production samples are made in our own sample rooms in 10–15 days, with lab dips approved before bulk dyeing.

Bulk Production
03

Bulk Production

Approved styles move onto dedicated lines — knitting, cutting, printing, embroidery, stitching and washing inside Indies facilities.

Quality & Export
04

Quality & Export

AQL 2.5 inspection, 100% needle and metal detection, retail-ready packing and FOB, CIF or DDP export documentation.